Cosmetic compositions

ABSTRACT

A cosmetic composition is provided comprising: 
     A) a cosmetically acceptable carrier; and 
     B) 0.05 to 3.0% by weight, based on the weight of the total composition, of a β-1,3-glucan having a mean molecular weight of 10 5  to 25.10 6 .

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions and, inparticular, to such compositions containing a glucan as an activeingredient.

In GB-A-2 050 825 there is described a skin cosmetic composition of theoil-in-water type, comprising an emulsifying agent, an oil and water,the emulsifying agent being composed of a) at least one specifiedglycyrrhizic compound and b) at least one water-soluble polysaccharideselected from pectin, karaya gum, locust bean gum and xanthan gum.

The polysaccharides used in GB-A-2 050 825 have certain disadvantages,namely that they contain acidic groups, rendering them sensitive to saltformation and/or variations in pH, as well as a lack of stability overan adequate temperature range.

In JP 030167109 there is described a cosmetic material containing aβ-1,3-glucan having a mean molecular weight greater than 10.10⁶.β-1,3-glucans having a mean molecular weight greater than 10.10⁶,however, are of poor aspect, and their molecular weight cannot bedetermined using the conventional light scattering method.

It has now been found that certain glucans are useful as activeingredients and as excipients in cosmetic compositions, without thedisadvantages associated with the polysaccharides used in GB-A-2 050 825or with the β-1,3-glucans of JP 030167109. Moreover, the glucans used inthe present compositions, on drying, form flexible films which, althoughinsoluble in water, swell readily therein. This ability to form filmsrepresents an added advantage for the use of these glucans in cosmeticformulations:

Accordingly, the present invention provides a cosmetic compositioncomprising:

A) a cosmetically acceptable carrier; and

B) 0.05 to 3.0, preferably 0.2 to 1.0% by weight; based on the weight ofthe total composition, of a β-1,3-glucan having a mean molecular weightof 10⁵ to 10.10⁶, preferably 2 to 10.10⁶.

The cosmetic composition may constitute, e.g., a shampoo and/or hairconditioner composition, in which the glucan component B) may performone or more of the following functions:

i) effect an improvement in the combability of hair treated with theshampoo/conditioner;

ii) effect an improvement in the dispersion of other components in theshampoo/conditioner;

iii) act as a smoothing agent for hair treated with theshampoo/conditioner; and

iv) effect an improvement in the level of fixing of such additives asdyes or UV absorbers in the shampoo/conditioner.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may alsoconstitute a skin care composition, e.g., an emulsion or cream in whichthe glucan may perform one or more of the following functions:

i) effect a lubricating function, thereby facilitating the spreading ofthe composition on the skin;

ii) act as a film-forming agent, thereby providing a protective film onthe skin, which film, while almost undetectable by touching, providesthe skin with a silky feel;

iii) effect a smoothing of the skin by reducing the scaling of theoutermost layer of stratum corneum;

iv) effect an improvement in the dispersion of other components of theskin care composition; and

v) act as an emulsifier or co-emulsifier for the skin care composition.

The skin care composition may be formulated as an aqueous lotion, awater-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion, an oil or oil-alcohol lotion,a vesicular dispersion of anionic or nonionic amphiphilic lipids, anaqueous, aqueous-alcohol, alcohol or oil-alcohol gel, a solid stick oran aerosol formulation.

When formulated as a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion, thecosmetically acceptable carrier A) preferably comprises 5 to 50% of anoil phase; and 47 to 94.95% of water, each based on the total weight ofthe composition.

The oil phase may comprise any oil, or mixture thereof,. which is knownto be suitable for use in cosmetic compositions.

Examples of such oils include aliphatic hydrocarbons such as liquidparaffin, squalane, vaseline and ceresin; vegetable oils such as oriveoil, almond oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, castor oil, cacao butter andpalm oil; animal oils such shark liver oil, cod liver oil, whale oil,beef tallow and butter fat; waxes including bees wax, carnauba wax,spermaceti and lanolin; fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid,, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and behenic acid; aliphaticalcohols such as lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol andoleyl alcohol; and aliphatic esters such as isopropyl-, isocetyl- oroctadecyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipateor diisopropyl sebacate.

Preferred mono- or polyols, for use in an oil-alcohol lotion, or a anoil-alcohol or alcohol gel, include ethanol, isopropanol, propyleneglycol, hexylene glycol, glycerine and sorbitol.

When the β-1,3-glucan is used as a co-emulsifier, the other emulsifierused may be any emulsifier conventionally used in cosmetic formulationse.g., one or more of an ethoxylated ester of a natural oil derivativesuch as a polyethoxylated ester of hydrogenated castor oil; a siliconeoil emulsifier such as a silicone polyol; an optionally ethoxylatedfatty acid soap; an ethoxylated fatty alcohol; an optionally ethoxylatedsorbitan ester, an ethoxylated fatty acid; or an ethoxylated glyceride.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may alsoconstitute an oral care preparation, e.g., a dental gel, a denturefixation aid, a tooth paste, a mucosal lubricant formulation such as avaginal cream or gel, or an ophthalmological preparation such as eyedrops, in which the glucan component B) may perform one or more of thefollowing functions:

i) effect lubrication of dry mucosae;

ii) effect thickening of liquid preparations;

iii) effect retention of active ingredients by formation of films onmucosal surfaces; and

iv) effect an improvement in the dispersion of other components in thecomposition.

When the β-1,3-glucan is used in an ophthalmological preparation, it maybe used together with other components such as:

a) ophthalmological active ingredients e.g. Gentamicin sulphate,Lomefloxacin hydrochloride, Chloramphenicol, Sodium Diclofenac,Potassium Diclofenac, Dexamethason di-sodium phosphate, Naphazolinnitrate, Tetryzolin hydrochloride, Antazolin hydrochloride, Antazolinsulphate, Pilocarpin chloride, Vitamin A-palmitate and zinc sulphate;

b) ophthalmological buffers such as boric acid, borax, acetic acid,sodium acetate, phosphoric acid, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, disodiumhydrogen phosphate, sodium phosphate, Trometamol, citric acid and sodiumcitrate;

c) ophthalmological preservatives such as benzyl alkylammonium chloride,benzoxonium chloride, chlorhexidine digluconate, chlorobutanol,phenylethyl alcohol and Thiomersal;

d) solvents such as ethanol, glycerol, polyethylene glycol and water;

e) solution aids such as Cremophor EL, Cremophor RH, Tween 20 and Tween80;

f) isotonising agents such as sodium chloride, mannitol and sorbitol,

g) chelate formers such as disodium EDTA;

h) antioxidants such as α-tocopherol acetate, ascorbic acid,N-acetyl-cystine, sodium bisulphite, sodium thiosulphate and propylgallate; and

i) viscosity-increasing compounds such as methylhydroxypropyl cellulose,Carbopol 934 P, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 980 and Polaxomer F 127.

The β-1,3-glucan component of the cosmetic composition of the presentinvention has the structural formula: ##STR1## in which n is a numberwhich provides the β-1,3-glucan component with a mean molecular weight(MW) of 10⁵ to 10.10⁶, preferably 2 to 10.10⁶, determined from thereadily measured Staudinger Index η using the following Mark-Houwinkequation:

    MW= η/4.45.10.sup.-7 !.sup.1/1.49

Preferably, a 0.3 g/l aqueous solution of the β-1,3-glucan has a glucosecontent below 0.1 g/l and a viscosity of 50 to 190 mPa.s, measured at ashear-rate of 0.3 s⁻¹ at 40° C.

The β-1,3-glucan may be produced by any conventional method for theproduction of a high-molecular, uncharged homopolysaccharide; inparticular such a known method using microorganisms.

One preferred method is that described in EP-A-504 673. In thisspecification, there is described a process for the extra-cellularproduction of homopolysaccharides of molecular weight ranging from 5 to25.10⁶, having only β-1,3-D-glucopyranose units in the main chain, eachthird unit of which is β-1,6-glycosidically bonded with a furtherglucose unit. The process is characterized in that microorganisms, inthe form of at least one of the fungal strains DSM 6318, DSM 6319 andDSM 6320 is cultivated in a culture medium, with aeration and agitation,at 15° to 40° C.; the culture solution is then separated from the massof cells; and the water-soluble homopolysaccharide so obtained isisolated in conventional manner.

The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise furthercomponents which are known to perform a useful function in a cosmeticcomposition. Examples of such further components include, e.g.,emollients, skin moisturisers, UV absorbers such as an oxanilide, atriazine or triazole, additional thickening agents such as xanthan,moisture-retention agents such as glycerine, film formers,preservatives, perfumes and colourants.

The following Examples further illustrate the present invention.

EXAMPLE 1 A) Cross-infection of the protoclon B-strain with themonokaryotic strain S.commune ATCC 36481 giving S.commune DSM 6320

Using the procedure described in Example 1 of EP-A-504 673, thecross-infection is effected in Petri dishes, in the middle of which apiece of the micelle of both strains is inoculated at a separation ofabout 1 cm. The composition of the agar medium corresponds to thecomplex medium for immersion cultivation (see part B) with an additional15 g/l of agar. The incubation is effected at room temperature indaylight. As soon as the first spores are visible, after about 10 to 14days, a stock solution is established from the new dikaryon.

B) Production of glucan component

The new dikaryon DSM 6320, is then immersion cultivated in a 1 litreErlenmeyer flask in a medium comprising 33 g/l glucose.H₂ O, 3 g/ltechnical yeast extract, 1 g/l KH₂ PO₄ and

    0.5 g/l MgSO.sub.4.7H.sub.2 O

The product obtained after 120 hours has a micelle dry mass (g/l) of2.5, contains 12.0 g/l of polysaccharide (PS) having a mean molecularweight of 4.10⁶ and has a Y_(PS/S) value (product yield coefficient--gPS/g consumed substrate) of 0.4.

The following Table contains data relating to various physicalproperties of a β-1,3-glucan used in a cosmetic composition according tothe present invention. The respective β-1,3-glucans of mean molecularweight 6.10⁶, 1.10⁶ or 0.1.10⁶ are produced in a manner similar to thatset out in Example 1. For the purposes of comparison, the Table alsocontains data relating a β-1,3-glucan having a mean molecular weightgreater than 10.10⁶ according to JP 030167109.

    __________________________________________________________________________    mol. wt.                                                                            15.10.sup.6                                                                         12.10.sup.6                                                                        6.10.sup.6                                                                          4.10.sup.6                                                                         1.10.sup.6                                                                          0.1.10.sup.6                                viscosity                                                                           1422  1079 948   875  755   688                                         at 0.5 g/l                                                                    and 0.062/s                                                                   aspect                                                                              opaque                                                                              opaque                                                                             clear clear                                                                              clear clear                                       light microgel                                                                            microgel                                                                           microgel                                                                            microgel                                                                           microgel                                                                            microgel                                    scattering       free  free free  free                                        aspect                                                                        organoleptic                                                                        gritty                                                                              gritty                                                                             smooth                                                                              smooth                                                                             smooth                                                                              smooth                                      feel             non-tacky                                                                           non-tacky                                                                          non-tacky                                                                           non-tacky                                   film forming                                                                        stable                                                                              stable                                                                             stable                                                                              stable                                                                             stable                                            property                                                                      __________________________________________________________________________

The distinct and superior viscosity, aspect, light-scattering aspect andorganoleptic feel properties of a β-1,3-glucan used in a cosmeticcomposition according to the present invention, relative to aβ-1,3-glucan having a mean molecular weight greater than 10.10⁶according to JP 030167109, are clear.

EXAMPLE 2

A massage cream is formulated from the following ingredients:

2% bees wax

45% liquid paraffin

3% cetyl alcohol

2.5% pectin (mol. weight 100,000)

46.5% deionised water

0.2% methylparaben

0.5% glucan from Example 1 and 0.3% perfume

each by weight, based on the total weight of the cream.

A first solution is prepared by homogeneously dissolving the pectin,methylparaben and glucan in the deionised water at 80° C. A secondsolution is produced by melting the bees wax, liquid paraffin and cetylalcohol by heating the mixture to 80° C. While the first solution isstirred in a homomixer, the second solution is added to it and dispersedin it. The resulting emulsion is allowed to cool and, on reaching 70°C., the perfume is added. Stirring is stopped once the temperature fallsto 30° C. The oil-in-water form massage cream so obtained has goodtexture and gloss and is stable at 2°-60° C. over 6 months.

EXAMPLE 3

An aqueous ophthalmological preparation is formulated from the followingingredients:

1 mg Glucan from Example 1

1 mg Sodium Diclofenac

50 mg Solution aid (Cremophor EL)

6 mg Ophthalmological buffer (Trometamol)

19 mg Boric acid

0.04 mg Ophthalmological preservative (Thiomersal)

Water for injection purposes to 1.00 ml.

We claim:
 1. A cosmetic composition comprising:A) a cosmeticallyacceptable carrier; and B) 0.05 to 3.0% by weight, based on the weightof the total composition, of a β-1,3-glucan having a mean molecularweight of 2×10⁶ to 10×10⁶.
 2. A composition according to claim 1 inwhich the composition constitutes a shampoo and/or hair conditionercomposition.
 3. A composition according to claim 1 in which thecomposition is a skin care composition.
 4. A composition according toclaim 3 in which the skin care composition is formulated as an aqueouslotion, a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion, an oil oroil-alcohol lotion, a vesicular dispersion of an anionic or nonionicamphiphilic lipid, an aqueous, aqueous-alcohol, alcohol or oil-alcoholgel, a solid stick or an aerosol.
 5. A composition according to claim 4in which, in a water-in-oil or an oil-in-water emulsion, thecosmetically acceptable carrier A) comprises 5 to 50% of an oil phaseand 47 to 94.95% of water, each based on the total weight of thecomposition.
 6. A composition according to claim 5 in which the oilphase is an aliphatic hydrocarbon; a vegetable oil; an animal oil; awax; a fatty acid; an aliphatic alcohol; or an aliphatic ester.
 7. Acomposition according to claim 6 in which the aliphatic hydrocarbon is aliquid paraffin, squalane, vaseline or ceresin; the vegetable oil isolive oil, almond oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, castor oil, cacao butteror palm oil; the animal oil is shark liver oil, cod liver oil, whaleoil, beef tallow or butter fat; the wax is bees wax, carnauba wax,spermaceti or lanolin; the fatty acid is lauric acid, myristic acid,palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid or behenic acid; the aliphaticalcohol is lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or oleylalcohol; and the aliphatic ester is isopropyl-, isocetyl- or octadecylmyristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate ordiisopropyl sebacate.
 8. A composition according to claim 4 in which theβ-1,3-glucan functions as a co-emulsifier for the composition and theother emulsifier used is one or more of an ethoxylated ester of anatural oil derivative; a silicone oil emulsifier, an optionallyethoxylated fatty acid soap; an ethoxylated fatty alcohol; an optionallyethoxylated sorbitan ester; an ethoxylated fatty acid; or an ethoxylatedglyceride.
 9. A composition according to claim 8 in which theethoxylated ester of a natural oil derivative is a polyethoxylated esterof hydrogenated castor oil; and the silicone oil emulsifier is asilicone polyol.
 10. A composition according to claim 1 in which thecomposition constitutes an oral care preparation; a mucosal lubricantformulation; or an ophthalmological preparation comprising a carrier.11. A composition according to claim 10 in which the oral carepreparation is formulated as a dental gel, a denture fixation aid or atooth paste.
 12. A composition according to claim 10 in which themucosal lubricant formulation is a vaginal cream or gel.
 13. Acomposition according to claim 10 in which the ophthalmologicalpreparation is an eye drops preparation.
 14. A composition according toclaim 1 which the β-1,3-glucan is produced by a process for theextra-cellular production of homopolysaccharides of molecular weightranging from 10⁵ to 10.10⁶, having only β-1,3-D-glucopyranose units inthe main chain, each third unit of which is β-1,6-glycosidically bondedwith a further glucose unit, characterized in that microorganisms, inthe form of at least one of the fungal strains DSM 6318, DSM 6319 andDSM 6320 is cultivated in a culture medium, with aeration and agitation,at 15° to 40° C.; the culture solution is then separated from the massof cells; and the water-soluble homopolysaccharide so obtained isisolated in conventional manner.
 15. A composition according to claim 1in which the composition also comprises one or more of emollients, skinmoisturisers, UV absorbers, additional thickening agents,moisture-retention agents, film formers, preservatives, perfumes andcolourants.
 16. A composition according to claim 15 in which the UVabsorber is an oxanilide, a triazine or triazole, the additionalthickening agent is xanthan and the moisture-retention agent isglycerine.
 17. A composition according to claim 10 in which the carrieris an ophthalmological solvent.
 18. A composition according to claim 13which also comprises an ophthalmologically-active ingredient.
 19. Acomposition according to claim 13 which also comprises anophthalmological buffer.
 20. A composition according to claim 13 whichalso comprises an ophthalmological preservative.
 21. A compositionaccording to claim 13 which further comprises at least one of a solutionaid, an isotonising agent, a chelate former, an antioxidant or aviscosity-increasing compound.
 22. An eye drops preparation whichconsists of:0.05 to 3.0% by weight based on the weight of the totalcomposition, of a β-1,3glucan having a means molecular weight of 1×10⁶to 10×10⁶, sodium diclofenac, a solution aid, an opthalmological buffer,boric acid; an opthalmological preservative and water.
 23. A cosmeticcomposition comprising:A) a cosmetically acceptable carrier; and B) 0.2to 1.0% by weight, based on the weight of the total composition, of aβ1,3-glucan having a mean molecular weight of 2×10⁶ to 10×10⁶.